For the most part seafood stews were created by fishermen to make use of the less marketable bits of their catch or any good bits that went unsold. Often if they were out at sea for long periods they would bring canned or sometimes fresh tomato, garlic, onions, oil, and salt with them on board and make stew on the boat with the spoils of the day. The wonderful thing about any fish stew is that you can use inexpensive bits of fish and still make something quite delicious. Of course, more expensive seafood, such as langoustines, lobsters, crabs, or tiger prawns, in combination with various pieces of what are now pricier fish, like cod or sea bass, can also be used. Unfortunately most seafood is rather pricey these days, so seafood stew is no longer a poor man’s dish, especially if you are making it for a large dinner party. But be that as it may, if you can’t find affordable seafood （hit the fishmonger at the end of the day, as they sometimes give you a discount on bits and pieces of this or that fish that are to be discarded and are perfect for a stew）， or if you have a hankering for something richer, then splurge on the best fish, crustaceans, and mollusks you can find and have at it.
Here is our recipe for fish stew:
Fish Stew
— SERVES 6 —
2 pounds fresh mussels （the smaller the better）
2 pounds fresh vongole （small clams）
? cup sea salt or cornmeal
1 teaspoon saffron threads （optional）
2 cups warm or room-temperature shrimp stock （optional, but it gives a richer flavor）
2 cups warm or room-temperature fish stock （if using shrimp stock; if not using shrimp stock as well, have 4 cups ready）
Extra-virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, halved
1 medium onion, diced
4 cups chopped fresh tomatoes
3 basil leaves, torn in half
Sea salt
2 whole pepperoncini （optional）
2 cups white wine
Freshly ground black pepper
12 medium shrimp, shells on
1 pound fresh cod （or similar fish）， cut into small chunks
1 pound fresh monkfish （or similar fish）， cut into small chunks
A handful of fresh parsley, chopped
Good toasted bread, for serving
Wash and pull the “beards” off the mussels.
Place the vongole and mussels into separate bowls of cold water, add the salt or cornmeal, and leave to purge for about an hour.
After the mussels and vongole have purged, place half of each into a large frying pan of boiling salted water and cover for a few minutes until they have opened. Then remove the meat from the shells, place it into a bowl, and set aside. Discard the shells.
Sprinkle the saffron threads, if using, into 1 cup of the stock and let dissolve.
Into a medium sauté pan, drizzle a glug of olive oil and add 1 of the garlic cloves and half of the diced onion. Simmer over a low to medium heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, basil, and a large pinch of salt. Cook down until the tomatoes have softened and the mixture begins to gel, about 10 minutes.
In a large, deep frying pan or a pot, pour in a glug of olive oil and sauté the rest of the onion and garlic over medium-low heat until softened and transluscent. If using the pepperoncini, they can be sautéed now as well.
Add the white wine to the pan and raise the heat to allow the alcohol to evaporate.
Reduce the heat to medium and add the fresh tomato sauce as well as the stock, including the saffron-infused stock. Add salt and pepper to taste. Let cook for a few minutes.
The sauce should now be at a slow boil. Add the clams and mussels that are still in their shells and cover. After 2 minutes, add the shrimp and cover. After 2 more minutes, add the fish and the reserved clam and mussel meat. Cover and cook for about 2 minutes. Turn off the heat and add a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil. Taste and add more salt or pepper if needed. Cover with the lid slightly askew and let rest for about 10 minutes.
Ladle into large bowls, sprinkling each with chopped parsley and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with the toasted bread.
* * *
I said that Felicity and I love seafood. We also love the sea, particularly the Amalfi coast, so when friends invited us to join them for a few days on a private yacht a wealthy friend had loaned them, we jumped at the chance. I find dining al fresco on a beautiful day, no matter what the season, one of the most enjoyable experiences ever. Dining al fresco at a restaurant in any part of Italy is even more enjoyable. Sailing on a yacht and dining al fresco on the Amalfi coast is so enjoyable that one feels guilty. （Well, I do.） The fresh salty sea air and sunshine augment whatever is on one’s plate or in one’s glass. The ease of summer life there, and the generosity of the Amalfitani, can’t help but strip away all worries and open even the most stubborn of hearts.