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The Hotel Nantucket(141)

Author:Elin Hilderbrand

North Shore

Jetties Beach is walkable from town and has the added attraction of the Sand Bar, which I’ll discuss in the restaurant section. Steps Beach has, quite possibly, the most beautiful approach of any beach in the world. You descend forty-three steps into sand dunes covered by rosa rugosa, which in the height of summer blooms with pink and white flowers. Dionis Beach is where Richie is found asleep in his car in this novel. In the book, I say that Dionis has public showers—this is fiction. It does not have showers. It does, however, have bathrooms.

South Shore

Surfside Beach was my beach of choice for my first three summers. In fact, I don’t think I went anywhere else. It’s wide. There’s plenty of space. It also has the Surfside Beach Shack. It’s not an exaggeration to say that if I could, I would eat lunch at the Surfside Shack every day of the summer, and so would my kids. The food is delicious. I get the “krabby patty” (crab, shrimp, and scallop patty) with avocado, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and their delicious sauce. My daughter gets acai bowls. The boys get the grilled chicken sandwich or burgers. It falls into my “can’t miss” category if you’re staying on Nantucket more than one day during the summer. However, there is often a line—you’ve been warned!

Nobadeer Beach: Party central. Are you twenty-five or younger? Go here. There is a walk-on section and a drive-on section. Both are filled with beautiful young people living their best lives. If you’re walking on, please do not park on the road—you will get a ticket.

Cisco: Do you surf or like to watch other people surf? Go here. The beach is much narrower than at Surfside and Nobadeer and parking is often an issue.

None of these is my favorite. I have thought long and hard and decided not to name my preferred south shore beach, because what I love about it is it’s not popular and never very crowded except by locals and summer residents. Because I feel guilty for holding back, I will say that if you want a terrific not-crowded beach, drive out to Miacomet Golf Course, but just before you reach the clubhouse, take a right onto the dirt road that leads past the big antenna. The road is what I have called in my books “the no-name road,” and the beach is what I call Antenna Beach. There is a cottage to the left of the entrance to this beach that was the inspiration for Mallory’s cottage in 28 Summers.

What Is There to Do If I Don’t Like the Beach?

Yes, I do realize there are people who don’t like the beach. (I am merely grateful you like beach novels!)

Do you like to shop?

If the answer is yes, you’re in luck! Unlike Martha’s Vineyard, which has seven towns, Nantucket has only one town, called “town.” (Locals say, “I’m going to town” or “I saw Elin in town.”) Nantucket’s central business district is four square blocks, chock-full of great shopping, all of it adjacent to the ferry docks. It’s therefore possible to get off the ferry, shop, get something to eat, and get back on the ferry—and although you will not have seen nearly enough of the island, you also won’t be disappointed. Town is just that great.

There are too many shops for me to mention, so I’m giving you only my very favorites.

Mitchell’s Book Corner and Nantucket Bookworks: Hmm…why did I start with these? Well, because I believe independent bookstores are the cornerstones of civilization. Nantucket is lucky enough to have not one independent bookstore but two, and they’re owned by the same person, my cherished friend Wendy Hudson. The good news about Wendy owning both stores is that instead of being competitors, they complement each other. Mitchell’s is located at 54 Main Street and has two floors of books, including an outstanding selection of Nantucket-based books. From mid-June until mid-September I do a book signing outside Mitchell’s every Wednesday at 11:00 a.m. for one hour. Mitchell’s hosts signings all year round, including frequent signings with my fellow local authors Nancy Thayer and Nathaniel Philbrick. Website: Nantucketbookpartners.com; Instagram: @nantucketbooks.

Nantucket Bookworks can be found at 25 Broad Street. It’s small and cozy and has an outstanding children’s book section, a huge selection of toys, games, gifts, and chocolate!

The biggest celebrity at these bookstores is the events and marketing director, Tim Ehrenberg, who has a Bookstagram account @timtalksbooks where he gives outstanding recommendations. If Tim tells me to read it, I read it.

Flowers on Chestnut: If there is one store other than the bookstores that I would say you shouldn’t miss, it’s Flowers on Chestnut. Most visitors aren’t in need of a florist, but you should stop into Flowers anyway just for the aesthetics. There’s a sumptuous floral display in the middle of the first floor and a charming side garden. Beef up your Instagram—take pictures. Flowers on Chestnut also has a divine selection of candles, gifts, antiques, greeting cards, wrapping paper, cocktail napkins, and home furnishings. Website: Flowersonchestnut.com; Instagram: @flowersonchestnut.